Making the gar-board / top side

Firstly we used a spiraling plank to get the measurements from one side of the Gar-board. The spiraling plank is placed on the gar-board side of the frames and on each station a measurement from the chine to the spiraling plank at a known measurement in this case 200mm. The same from the bottom down.

After this is done we placed the spiraling plank on some cardboard and where we made all the chine marks we measured out 200mm out and same on the bottom marks but going the opposite way. after we have all the marks we then used a batten to fair the lines in then cut it out. 

We then placed the cut out cardboard on the sheet of ply and cut it out leaving all the excess ply on for we can cut it off at a later date. we make two of these for the gar-board is the same on both sides.

The exact same method is used to get the top sides.

Getting the correct bevel on the bottom

To get the right bevel on the bottom we used a hand saw and placed it on a station frame, got the hand saw level with the Garboard and cut the the bottom until the saw it was level with the garboard station frame. Do this on each station frame, but do not cut the frame it is just a guide.

After all the cuts a made we used a batten and fared the ends of the cuts in giving us a guide to plane to. 

Jig for laminated frames and stem

We will be laminating the midship pieces and the stem. For us to get the exact shape we need we built a jig (but in this case we were fortunate enough to have some on hand). Firstly we printed out a full scaled lines drawing of the stem and tape it down. Then we screwed the jig blocks where we felt gave us an accurate guide for the strips of red ceder to rap around and follow the lines on the lines plan like in the picture and placed plastic over the jig so when gluing the strips it doesn't stick.

The strips of ceder is not flexible enough to bend around the jig so we steamed the ceder which makes the ceder soft and flexible then we clamp it to the jig to dry. When its dry the ceder takes the shape of the jig.

After this is done we un clamp the strips and start gluing the strips of  red ceder like as followed. 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzIm4mzE07Y&feature=player_embedded

Making the bottom

We first got the measurements of auto cad and transfered them onto a bit of cardboard. We then used a batten to line up all the markings and double checked that it was fair by looking down the batten at different angles and drew it in. Then when we were happy with it we cut it out.

We are going to put this cut out onto a sheet of ply and cut it out, to get the bottom. When cutting it out it is important to leave as much of the ply as we can for the extra bits can be cut at a later date.

We came into a problem when we found that the bottom would not be able to be cut out in one sheet of ply for the boat is 3.5m long and the sheets were only 2.4m by 1.2m. So to get the bottom out of a sheet of ply we needed to extend the sheet by using a technique called scarfing. We drew out the bottom onto the sheet of ply by splitting it into two pieces.  We then planed both sides back using a 1:10 ratio on the end were they are going to join. Making sure that we planed the right side.

We lay'ed one on top of each other bringing the top sheet back the 1:10 ratio so we could plan both at once, for less work and clamped it down. We then planed to give it a feather edge keeping the 1:10 ratio on both bits of ply. (i found this real tricky)

After this is done we placed plastic under the ply then applied resin to the planed surface given it 5-10min to soak in. This is to make the join stronger. This process is called epoxy saturation technique.

 heres a link to a short video of how its done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7q8P5IKk7o&feature=player_embedded

After this we apply a full mixture of epoxy onto the open grain and placed them together. We were having a bit of problems trying to keep equal pressure on the joint so this is what we came up with. Or more like Chris had hinted to us :)

Watch video: To see how we done it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27RYfXLYYY8&feature=player_embedded

After the epoxy is dry we carefully planed and sanded the excess glue. 

Be real carefully not to sand to far for it'll effect the joint.

Beveling the bottom of the frames

The prebevel the frames before we can put the bottom onto the frames. We first used a battern and layed it on top going from the ap to the fp and at each end of the battern attached clamps to weigh it down. watch the video to see how this is done..

After all beveling the battern should lay flat on all frames without having to touch the battern..

click on link to see video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OKYbCDXHVQ&feature=player_embedded

Making frames

We first went onto auto cad and got all the measurements of the frames. We then drew the measurements onto sheets of particle boards, some boards had to be extended we simply used a bit of wood and butt joint the two boards together. once all the frames were drawn and cut out they were then put into place and held into position by using an angled brace on stn 0 and stn 5 and put straight braces in between the rest of the stns to keep it steady and plum.

Extensions

Building stock

First step was to build a building stock but in this case we were able to use one previously made. Which i reckon saved a day or two. We then found a good place to mount it then found a good height for it to be then attached it to the floor at the same time keeping it level and steady. getting the right height was crucial for we wanted it to be easy for all of us to work on. We also drew a center line going from the fp to the ap then marked the stations. the station lines will be used as reference points to where the frames go.